ESB AT-ST STUDIO SCALE MODEL
Welcome to the webpage for the Studio Scale AT-ST digital model for the DIY modeler. This is both a 3D STL downloadable kit (no physical media) and a physical kit that is a blend of 3D printed parts and traditional resin-cast parts. See the ROTJ resin cast kit to see how that is made.
**NOTE: when building either the 3D printed model or the physical resin kit, I recommend using this metric M2 nuts/bolts kit: Amazon.com: TOTFSTNR 12.9 Grade M2 M3 M4 Alloy Steel Socket Cap Screws Hex Head Bolt Nuts Assortment Kit (1200PCS) : Industrial & Scientific
Here's a look at the kit parts when you 3D print your own model.
Here's a look at the PHYSICAL KIT that mails in a box to you (legs re-engineered to be mold-friendly). White parts are resin castings, grey part are 3D printed resin. It includes waterslide decals:
I recommend using this panavise mount directly UNDER the chassis for maximum suppport. This mount telescopes up and down allowing for maximum posability. Amazon.com : Panavise 883-T Dual Option Telescoping Mount (Black) : Surveillance Mounting Brackets : Electronics
The DIGITAL MODEL STL files is $49.00 This does not include any physical media. All files are STL format for 3D printing. The parts are unsupported and I make no guarantees the parts will fit your specific printer bed without modifications.
The digital files contain 3 versions of the head and 2 versions of the neck. The head version 1 is split to allow it to be printed on a printer as small as the elgoo mars 2 Pro. The second head is whole with a separate top plate. The third head is whole WITH the top plate detail panel for printers the size of an elegoo Saturn.
If you don't have a 3D printer, THE PHYSICAL KIT (resin 3D printed parts and resin cast parts) is $389.00 It ships only to U.S. Addresses. Please allow 4 weeks for shipment after order.
PHYSICAL KIT!!
HOW IT WAS MADE:
I designed interior tabs that allow the back and bottom plates to be printed separately and easily lock into position.
The head so far: some adjustments need to be made (more accurate cheek gun mounts, thicker cannons, etc..
REFINED HEAD (3rd pass):
Developing the feet:
Chin gun nearing completion (fourth pass)
Modeling the Chassis:
Round 2 on the Chassis. This is already outdated as I straighened and lengthened the top fenders, thinned the lower armor plates, added rods on the 2 front piston openings, etc..etc. 3D modeling is a very fluid process.
A look at the nearly completed head and chassis:
Developing the legs:
Finished model before test printing.
HOW THIS MODEL SEPARATES FOR 3D PRINTING:
The stamped part numbers seen on the ankles above are totally accurate to the studio filming miniature (they flipped donor kits inside out). Also notice the outer detail on the lower portion of the shins is flipped wrong for the right leg (also accurate to the filming model)!
TEST PRINT TIME!
I printed the first version of the parts on the elgoo mars 2 pro. Being such a tiny printer, I had to segment the head in half, which was later joined with the seamline easily blended with filler.
From here, with a physical model in my hands, I was able to determine there needed to be a few adjustments. E.g. reducing the length of the chinguns, and adding yet another level of detailing.
The second test proof came from Mega 8K where the head needed no segmentation.
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